Kazakhstan - Powder in the Kazakh Altai

A Lot of Snow in the Early Season

We’ve been visiting the Altai at the start of the winter season for many years. No matter if we’re out and about with the snowcat or touring ski, the masses of snow and the quality of the powder that this region receives in the early winter has never been disappointing. The Altai Mountains stretch at its southern most foothills far into northern Kazakhstan and even has some peaks that reach 3000m. Thanks to the northern location, even early winters, as early as October, see heavy precipitation. Our cosy mountain lodge is located in the middle of a beautiful ski area. The garage next to it houses two snowcats with a heated cabin. 

These snowcats take you exclusively to the surrounding mountains. What awaits us is a beautiful, snow-covered mountain range covered with sparse forests. We can easily reach some of the peaks with the snowcat, others require climbing with skins. The combination of snowcat and ascent with skins is ideal and allows us a very large range.

Itinerary

We fly from Central Europe via Almaty to Ust-Kamenogorsk, situated on the edge of the Altai Mountains. From there, we travel by minibus—a journey of approximately two hours—into a side valley near Ridder. Nestled within this hidden Altai valley lies a cozy mountain lodge. After a delicious dinner, we head to the pre-heated sauna. With a welcome shot of vodka in hand, we look forward to the six days ahead. Utilizing both a snowcat and ski touring skins, we access some of the finest ski terrain available. Most of our descents end right at the lodge in the evening, where a hearty après-ski snack awaits us.

After six unforgettable days of skiing, we begin our return journey to Ust-Kamenogorsk, catching an afternoon flight onward to Almaty. We spend one final night in Almaty before our flight back to Central Europe departs the following morning.

Our base

We are staying in an idyllically situated mountain hut nestled in a side valley. Here, we are treated to excellent, hearty cuisine. A substantial breakfast provides us with the energy we need for an eventful day outdoors. We take our lunch and tea along with us in the snowcat, and upon our return in the late afternoon, a delicious soup awaits us. Then, it’s straight to the sauna, which is heated with birch wood. The shower setup is simple: we mix hot and cold water ourselves and pour it over ourselves using small pots. After the sauna, a fine dinner is ready and waiting. We wind down the day over a beer. To be clear, this is a rustic mountain hut; consequently, we are accommodated in shared sleeping quarters, with three people per room.

Our Snowcat

We use Kässbohrer snowcats with a heated cabin. The ascents sometimes take up to an hour. We use this time to drink tea, warm up, chat and look forward to the next run.

Snow and Terrain

In the Kazhak Altai huge amounts of snow already fall early in the winter and in the beginning of December usually the snow depth is more than 3 meters. Most of our runs are located at an altitude between 800 and 2000 meters and lead through typical light siberian forest. The trees also give us good contrast on snowy days when visibility is poor. The terrain is about 25-35°, ideal for an early winter snowpack.

The final run of the day brings us back to the lodge, but can be a little challenging in the lower part due to dense trees.  

Weather and Temperatures

During the winter months, the Altai Mountains experience bitterly cold temperatures, with the thermometer occasionally dropping below –30°C. On days with such extreme sub-zero temperatures, we reserve the right to forgo a day of skiing. At these temperatures, an injury can very quickly lead to highly unpleasant consequences.